My first three trips to Oaxaca were in July, one of the peak seasons for tourism in this city. The last two Mondays in July (this year 7/22 and 7/29) are the days when the Gulaguetza, a dance festival featuring the eight regions of Oaxaca, takes place.
The streets fill with tourists, and every evening becomes more like Friday and Saturday nights are right now–crowded and frenetic.
There are fireworks day and night and parades on nearly every street corner. Also, because the Guelaguetza is historically related to the exchange of goods, people are offering their region’s products (including gallons and gallons of mezcal that they often offer from gasoline cans) for all to share in the bounty. It is a gorgeous and dynamic celebration of the entire state and all it has to offer.
So, despite the impromptu rainstorms (that seem more frequent this time of year), I will likely return another June and head out just before the caravan of rowdy tourists arrives.