Walking the streets in Mexico City, I couldn’t help but notice that there were no tlayudas, no chapulines, no corn carts and no hamburger stands in the streets. I found roasted chickens at this paella place and the candied apples (in a department store!). I saw tortas and moles and aguas. I went to the panaderia, and I had an agua de limon, but it was clear that I was six hours away from Oaxaca in a place that still put beans on a sandwich, but there was no sign of epazote!


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