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We met a woman who explained that their home had an altar built into it as some homes have an island or a fireplace. All year around the altar features photos of the dearly departed. All around the city, altars have sprung up. Even some of the characters from the odd nativity at the coffee shop appeared in an altar.

The smell of flor de muerto (flower of the dead which only grows out of town) and the other traditional flowers and fruits fills the air of cafes, stores, the entryway of the posada. The scents are supposed to draw the dead to our doorsteps, to let them know we are waiting.

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