Because Mitla is the location where people in Oaxaca traditionally believe the souls of their dead ones depart from, I assumed that there would be a great deal of celebration there. And, there is – during the day. We headed out there in the dark night in a van from Tlacolula. The van was headed to the coast, so he let us out at a gas station at the crucero (highway crossing). We would have to wave down a taxi.

We crossed the highway and stood in the dark by the side of the road. Quickly realizing that our chances were probably better if we waited in the well-lit gas station, we crossed the highway again. A mototaxi driver and his date pulled in to fill up. We asked if we could join them and get a ride into town. The driver was nice and said he could take is to the altar which, we learned upon arrival, was not up this year. And, the plaza where the altar ought to have been also had the skeletons of the stalls that had been there earlier in the day. So, we asked about the panteon, and he explained that, like the activities in the square, the cemetery only had action during the day.

As he was conveying us back to the Pemex, he told us to wait in the dark on the right side of the onramp to the highway. We were certain to find someone heading back to the city.

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